If your looking at buying ... I would call ahead first and ask prices on some general sizes. Take your list of sizes and prices with you and see if the prices still apply once you get there. If not, then you know right off the bat, the retailer is tying to get over on you. Look at how many supports are underneath the trailer. Look at the welds and make sure they are pretty ... There ya go ... Pretty sometimes matters. If the weld is sloppy, then they may break due to pinholes and slag in the weld. That would mean the weld is not solid. Look at the gapping between the welds. When we build we like to do 8 to 12 inches apart for a strong frame connection. Make sure the deck (floor) sheets meet together at a cross member. If not, then your not getting a solid sturdy connection. Don't be afraid to pull and jerk on the trailer to check the steardiness. It also helps to check for rattles. You should be able to stand on the fenders without them budging at all. Make sure the A-Frame (front beams connected to the coupler that attaches to your truck) not only runs under the main deck, but runs back pretty far, sometimes to the middle of the trailer on your heavier trailer. That will give you an idea about if the builder is just trying to get by, or really cares about the trailer lasting. Ask about brand names on the parts added to the trailer. If you go to this website, you will see the better brands of trailer parts which you would want on your trailer. This is who I use for parts when building. They may or may not have exactly what you have in mind. But they do carry over a million parts. Not sure about the type of trailer your talking about though. They also have a trailer forum that might help. There good about answering the dumb questions I pose when in a jam ... I am sure they could help you also. Don't buy until you have done your research. Good Luck.

Rick

 My comments will be based on the construction of aluminum trailers, but many comments are applicable to steel as well.

The frame is the most important part of a trailer, just as the foundation is to a house. The heavier it is built, the more sturdy and long lasting it should be. The frame basically consists of two long frame members and cross braces that act as floor joists. The spacing of the braces will determine the rigidity of the floor; the closer together, the more sturdy it will be. On trailers built with a one piece sheet metal floor covering, they will have to be very close together to prevent "oil canning". They would be typically 9" -12" apart for a good system.

If the flooring material consists of interlocking "beams" the braces can be placed further apart, and distances of 12" -24" are common with the closer spacing being preferable. Many "light" trailers are built with less materials. This increases the towing capacities, but will lower its durability. If two trailers have the same features and one is a thousand pounds lighter than another, you can bet that long term reliability will become an issue.

On some trailers, the stall area will have a metal floor while the LQ will have a wood floor. This is a less expensive construction method, and is not as long lasting.

The axles and tires carry the load. Those with larger capacities, will carry heavier loads and provide a more reliable and secure load. Some manufacturers use equipment that is barely adequate, running at their maximum capacity when the trailer is full. You want to purchase the largest capacity axles that are available, to ensure a reserve capacity and additional safety.

Tires and wheels are equally important. The higher rating the better, and upgrades are usually available. Running a tire at its maximum rated capacity will result in short tire life and blow outs. A quick, and not too scientific way to check the weight of a medium loaded trailer is to look at the lug nuts. If there are six, the axles, wheels and tires are for lightweight usage. Eight lug nuts indicate a heavier construction and more weight carrying capacities.

Look at the hinges on the rear doors. Some trailers have only two that are welded on, while other brands will have three or even four that are bolted on and are replaceable if damaged. The drop down window hinges take a beating and should be very rugged. If they are light weight and you can flex the window in your hands, try another brand.

In my part of the country, the rust belt, aluminum trailers are the material of choice. All steel, and steel framed trailers require additional maintenance due to rust issues. Obviously this is not true in other parts of the country.

There are more well built trailers available than poor ones. Those that enjoy good reputations are deserving of your scrutiny. I would avoid any trailer that has an OSB floor, light weight "T" joists placed at wide distances, light axles on an LQ trailer, and Chinese tires.

You are wise to inspect the structure instead of an basing your approval on looks alone. If you do a lot of hauling, a heavier built trailer would be the one of choice. There are many dozens of things to inspect on any purchase, and it would take books to explain every consideration.

If you're new to trailers, take an experience friend with you to inspect them. Do not take the word of a salesperson about the quality of his trailer. If he knocks his competition instead of touting the benefits of his equipment, walk away.