Posted 2007-03-23 9:41 PM (#57634) Subject: DIY...Do I need vapor barior?
Regular
Posts: 76 Location: WI
I am planning to use 1" sheets of foam insulation (the 4x8 sheeted stuff). Then I am going to put up a thin ply wood and then put my tongue and groove over that. Do I need a vapor barrior? Exactly what should I use and between what layers? DOes it goes between insulation and plywood, or does it goe between trailer and insulation??? I am in north central wi if that matters as far as weather.
Posted 2007-03-23 10:42 PM (#57646 - in reply to #57634) Subject: RE: DIY...Do I need vapor barior?
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385 Location: washington
I just insulated and paneled my tack room in the gooseneck... it is so nice now. I glued and packed the 1" insulation into the spaces I could and used bubble wrap insulation for the edges around the roof and nose... Actually I think the bubble wrap would have worked well all around, but I already had the 1" so used that. I insulated the floor and gooseneck platform and covered those with plywood then carpet padding with a rubberized bottom and covered with indoor/outdoor carpeting. I did not use any vapor barriers... I live in the Pacific Northwest where it's wet, sometimes cold, but usually above 20. Before I finished the trailer it was always wet with condensation in the tackroom... now it is bone dry and I absolutely love it. I used self tapping screws and lots of cedar furring strips (cost a lot more than fir but better) and wood paneling and then finished with 1x2 cedar furring strips to build shelves to stack stuff on. Here is a link to the website I used which was really helpful!! I basically did what he did except had no wiring or plumbing to do since I have no LQ. I don't recall him ever mentioning vapor barriers.
Posted 2007-03-27 12:52 PM (#57890 - in reply to #57634) Subject: RE: DIY...Do I need vapor barior?
Member
Posts: 7
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
I used his website also, but I did use a vapor barrier on the aluminum that was not covered with the insulation. I live in Kentucky and it can get cold here. Even when I was working in the trailer over the winter, there would be quite a bit of condensation on the inside. In those places I used the cellulose foam sill wrap and it appears to work great. The draw back is when it comes to framing, I can't see the studs as well. I have an Exiss so my studs are different than on a Hart. They are in a C pattern like this: [
Posted 2007-04-04 9:34 AM (#58454 - in reply to #57634) Subject: RE: DIY...Do I need vapor barior?
Member
Posts: 27 Location: Elgin, Texas
Hi
My husband and I just finished our DIY LQ. We live in Central TX where it doesn't really get that cold. We didn't use a vapor barrier, but my trailer already had the walls insulated and a white aluminum skin on the interior walls, but not on the ceiling. On the ceiling we used one layer of alum. bubble insulation next to the alum roof and two layers of the 1"foam under that for a total of R-21 insulation. It gets really hot here in the summer. On the walls, we added one layer of the foam board over the alum skin. I just wanted to let you know that the plywood you are talking about using under your tongue and groove may be over kill. We just used a brad nail gun and put the T & G directly on the furring strips. If your cedar strip 1 X 2's are horizontal, and you put up your T & G vertically, you can always tell where your strip is to nail to and you don't need the added weight and expense of the 1/4" plywood. Here is a link to some photos.
DIY...Do I need vapor barior?
