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alternative to B-up

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Last activity 2006-09-22 9:17 AM
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majoras
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2006-09-21 2:22 PM (#48894)
Subject: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 31
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Location: Nashville, TN
Hi everyone...I'm still trying to figure out the trailer thing.  I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with a towing package, V8, towing capacity 6500#, GCVWR about 12,000#.  It is basically the SUV version of the Tundra.
 
Now before everyone says I need a bigger truck let me say....aint gonna happen just yet.  This is MY reality and I need to work with it the best I can.  OK....
 
I like B-ups (sorry) but, they are expensive and the closest dealer is 200 miles away.  So can anyone give me a good alternative.  Featherlite, CM?  I don't want a Ponderosa.  Also, I have a 140" wheelbase, do I need a weight distributing hitch? Finally, what is involved with installing a brake box?  Is this expensive? Where does it go?  That is one reason I like the B-ups because of the breaking system.
 
OK.....shred, I mean thread away.
 
Amy
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RoperChick
Reg. Dec 2005
Posted 2006-09-21 4:31 PM (#48902 - in reply to #48894)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up



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Posts: 238
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Location: West Coast
Assuming they are still the same quality, I would suggest a CM. Our first trailer, many, many years ago was a CM Playday. For such an inexpensive trailer, it was pretty well made and pulled really nice, plus it had electric brakes, rather than surge brakes.
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majoras
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2006-09-21 6:32 PM (#48910 - in reply to #48902)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 31
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Location: Nashville, TN

I do like the CMs.  This is where my stupidity comes in.  When you say electric brakes, do these just run through the 7 or 4 prong adapter next to the hitch or do they require a separate piece of hardware.

This is all new to me I am sorry if it sounds so fundamental.

 

Amy

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SHMANN
Reg. Aug 2006
Posted 2006-09-21 7:10 PM (#48918 - in reply to #48894)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 121
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Location: Salem, CT

I've seen several brands that have 2 horse bumper pulls in the 2300lb to 2700lb range.  I don't know that weight is the "one big thing" with a Brenderup.  They seem to have a bunch of innovative design features that combine to make them easy to pull and stop.  Their weight really isn't that much different than other brands I've looked at, but they really do approach the whole design quite differently than the "traditional" designs that are available.

BTW - I think your vehicle should be just fine - I have a 4Runner, and I plan to use it for whatever 2 horse unit I get... it'll have to do for now.

 

Good Luck,

Steve

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Reg
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2006-09-21 7:51 PM (#48921 - in reply to #48894)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Originally written by majoras on 2006-09-21 2:22 PM

Hi everyone...I'm still trying to figure out the trailer thing. I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with a towing package, V8, towing capacity 6500#, GCVWR about 12,000#. It is basically the SUV version of the Tundra.
Now before everyone says I need a bigger truck let me say....aint gonna happen just yet. This is MY reality and I need to work with it the best I can. OK....
I like B-ups (sorry) but, they are expensive and the closest dealer is 200 miles away. So can anyone give me a good alternative. Featherlite, CM? I don't want a Ponderosa. Also, I have a 140" wheelbase, do I need a weight distributing hitch? Finally, what is involved with installing a brake box? Is this expensive? Where does it go? That is one reason I like the B-ups because of the breaking system.
OK.....shred, I mean thread away.
Amy


I tow a Jamco 2 horse aluminum trailer (2850 lbs, I think) with a Durango, FINE without WDH and sometimes with ONE BIG DUDE on ONE SIDE - works fine.

4_star is similar, BTW, the Jamco is built kinda "hefty" at 2850 with it's plank wall construction, etc. You could probably find an adequately built aluminum trailer around 2200, maybe less.

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arroyoseccofarm
Reg. Apr 2004
Posted 2006-09-21 9:14 PM (#48927 - in reply to #48894)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 202
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Location: North Texas

Have you considered a used Brenderup? If so, keep up with the inventory listed on this site. They usually sell very quickly.

We bought a used one in the Dallas area for $4000, used it for six years.  We kept it clean and maintained it well and sold it for $4000.  All-in-all it was the least expensive trailer that we will ever own.

Good luck!



Edited by arroyoseccofarm 2006-09-21 9:28 PM
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majoras
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2006-09-22 8:08 AM (#48941 - in reply to #48927)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 31
25
Location: Nashville, TN
Originally written by arroyoseccofarm on 2006-09-21 9:14 PM

Have you considered a used Brenderup? If so, keep up with the inventory listed on this site. They usually sell very quickly.

 
I have considered that.  But the ones I have seen are usually very far from me.  Out west or in Fla.  And I have no idea what to watch out for in a used trailer.  Any suggestions there.  I don't have the time to run around the country and look at trailers and I am not one to buy things sight unseen.
 
I do love the B-ups.  They seem to make sense.
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bonniejf
Reg. Oct 2004
Posted 2006-09-22 9:17 AM (#48946 - in reply to #48894)
Subject: RE: alternative to B-up


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Posts: 87
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Location: Lavaca, Alabama

As far as the brake box goes, you will just need a brake controller if the trailer has electric brakes.  Since your Sequoia has a tow package, I would assume it has already been wired to accept one.  There would be some wires stubbed out under your dash above the pedals (this is how my Tundra came) that would be connected to a brake controller that would probably be mounted in the area in front of your legs when you are driving.  It's my understanding that you would have a 6 pin or 7 pin connector from the trailer to the truck for electric brakes to work - not a 4 pin.  Your Sequoia probably came with a 7 pin connector at the rear near the hitch (this is what my Tundra has).  If the trailer had a 6 pin connector, you could just buy an adapter to plug it in to the truck.  The brake controller is easy to operate.  They come with directions and usually have a knob on the left that you set once and don't mess with, and a knob on the right that you adjust according to the load you are towing.  I usually try to adjust when I am headed up the driveway, and then I try not to mess with it once I am on the road.  The cost of brake controllers vary, but you'll probably have to spend between $50 and $75 plus the cost of installation if you don't do it yourself.

Hope this helps, and everyone feel free to correct me if any of this is wrong.

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