Posted 2011-10-01 1:08 PM (#137984) Subject: water tank valves
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Greeneville, TN
I'm not even sure how to ask this. Anyway we just got a used trailer that has 3 water tanks. The handle on the outside of the trailer will not pull out, so I'm assuming the valves are stuck, won't open or close. Does anyone know how to get these handles and valves working? Also we put water in the toilet and it immediately drain out, so that valve must be stuck as well. Please help. Thanks
Posted 2011-10-01 10:44 PM (#137989 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
If the toilet immediately drained, the black water valve is probably in the open position. This is a common position when the trailer is not being used. To close the valve, push on the handle towards the valve assembly. The other valve is probably for the gray water tank. This too is probably open and needs to be seated by pushing it closed.
The third tank may be your potable water supply. There is usually a smaller drain plug, tee'd into the supply line found near the bottom of the tank. On many installations this valve is also a push pull type, opperating in a vertical position. Pull upwards to open it, push it down to close. It may be a ball valve, and if the handle is parallel with the water line, it's open. If the handle is 90 degrees to the line, it is closed. If the tank has not been used for a while, it too was probably left in the open position.
Posted 2011-10-02 9:31 AM (#137996 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Obtain a spray can of lubricant, (WD-40 etc) and spray the shaft of the handle where it enters the valve assembly. Very gently, with a soft faced hammer, strike the handle directly across from where the shaft is affixed. Strike the handle in such a manner that the shaft is being driven straight into the valve, NOT at an angle. This will be in the center of the handle. This should move the valve to the closed position. It should then be a matter of getting the handle to move in each direction, using the hammer to initially loosen things a bit.
If excessive force is used, damage to the plastic plumbing can result. Be careful and gentle. The potable water tank's drain valve should not need such efforts, just perhaps the dump valves for the holding tanks.
Posted 2011-10-02 9:49 AM (#137997 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
When you look at the handles for the dump valves, you should see metal shafts leading from them, to holes that enter into the ends of the plastic valve assemblies. If the handle is almost against the valve, with little or no metal shaft exposed, the valve is probably in the closed position. If the handle is away from the valve with a few inches of shaft proud and exposed, the valve is open.
If the valve is open, perform the exercise I previously explained, by striking the handle (s) towards the closed position. If the handle is found against the valve, it will have to be tapped outward, away from the valve. Be careful not to bend or damage the shaft or handle, as you cycle the valve until it is free enough to move by hand.
Posted 2011-10-02 10:17 AM (#138000 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Greeneville, TN
Thanks gard. The handles are in the closed position but the black water drain is open, we're not sure about the other tank, it's probably grey water. We have used wd-40 but they won't budge. It would be very difficult to strike the handle in the middle when it is closed. Any other suggestions, short of taking it in. Thanks again
Posted 2011-10-02 3:29 PM (#138003 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
If your Black Water Tank does have water in it, I would try dumping a whole bottle of original liquid Dawn Detergent In the holding tank and let it sit for a while. You would be amazed at how much crud that Dawn breaks up. It could also act as a lubricant if it reaches the valve.Dump the bottle of liquid Dawn down the toilet and get the trailer ready to hit the road and right before you leave dump about 10 to 20 pounds of bagged ice down the toilet. This way while you are going down the road the ice cubes will rattle around in the tank also stirring around the liquid Dawn and this may be enough to free up whatever debris is keeping the sewer valve from opening. I know this all sounds kind of stupid, but it works and once you get the tank dumped it will be nice and clean.Otherwise it is time to replace it. Luckily they are not that expensive or that hard to install.
Posted 2011-10-02 3:44 PM (#138004 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Greeneville, TN
Thanks again. I will certainly do that once we get the drain to close, right now it's in the open position and won't close at all. Any suggestions on getting it closed. We're tried lubricants but it hasn't worked.
Posted 2011-10-02 6:35 PM (#138006 - in reply to #138004) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Expert
Posts: 3853 Location: Vermont
Originally written by chattermom on 2011-10-02 3:44 PM
Thanks again. I will certainly do that once we get the drain to close, right now it's in the open position and won't close at all. Any suggestions on getting it closed. We're tried lubricants but it hasn't worked.
Posted 2011-10-02 9:29 PM (#138008 - in reply to #137984) Subject: RE: water tank valves
Member
Posts: 15
Location: Greeneville, TN
Sorry, the handle is pushed in which should indicate that the valve is closed however when water goes through he toilet it drains out immediately. So even though the handle is in the valve must be open. Hope that clears it up. Thanks for helping.
water tank valves
