I live in Alberta, Canada, where we have some real cold. My first show of the year is always at the end of May, and some years we've had a skiff of snow during the show. Yuck. So I can see why insulation is of importance to you.

Having said that, we didn't worry too much about insulation when we did our trailer this winter. Why not? Because in reality we don't spend much time in our trailer at shows. We'll eat breakfast there, sleep there, and that's about it. So I wanted insulation to prevent condensation more than anything. We just used the rigid foam insulation and taped it well, I guess time will tell whether that's going to be enough, or not. On the other hand, we decided against insulating the trailer's bed because we were just too busy/lazy to pull out the perfectly good indoor/outdoor carpet on the nose. So if that isn't insulated, why get too paranoid about the ceiling? I suspect you're being more ambitious than us, so there may be more value in doing the ceiling extra well.

For heating we bought a ceramic room heater, it has a built in thermostat, and the one time we've tried it we were really pleased with how it worked. And because heat rises we were very nice and snug in the nose. Plus we're campers from way back, so we are always prepared with lots of blankets and we often sleep in warm clothes at night. Heck, a few years ago I slept in my open sided horse trailer (in a pup tent set up inside of it) and the temp got down to freezing. I had a hat on my head, lots of clothes, wrapped in a good sleeping bag, and was fine. Getting up and dressed in the morning wasn't so much fun, I admit, but I survived. My new trailer will be a huge improvement over that!

I'll be interested in seeing what sort of replies you get to this. I know many people discuss the difference in radiant heat, etc, so I'm sure I'll learn something new and wish we had done more when insulating our trailer!

Sometimes if you can get to the location, where a commercial insulation company is finishing a spraying installation, they will do a "small" job like a dressing room quite inexpensively. One of the largest expenses is getting their equipment and personnel on location, and getting things set up to do the job.

After the job is finished, they have to purge and clean their equipment, and break it all down for transport. By eliminating these steps, often times your smaller installation can easily be effected on site.

If you decide to go the spray insulation route, make sure all your wiring is first installed. You will not want to cut into the insulation to run the wiring at a latter date. You will also have to mask off the windows, latches, electrical panels or any non removable hardware.

Call some of the companies in your phone book, and ask if they will consider this application at their latest job site. You may be pleasantly surprised at how easily the job will turn out

The Radiantguard requires an air space to be effective.  Two layers placed together are not effective.  I would rather use rigid foam board with plastic film as a vapor barrier and a facing of some hard board material to protect the foam.

Rigid foam panels with bonded vapor barriers work very well in trailers. The double sided, foil faced types are especially good. They can be glued to the walls, and the edges taped to complete the vapour barrier. If the cuts aren't tight to the structure, the gaps can be first filled with spray foam. Curving the panels can be accomplished by a series of scarf cuts on the outside of the curve.

A jig saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade, will make quick work of the cutting and fitting of thick sheets. The thinner materials are easily cut with a utility knife.

Be careful not to use steel drywall screws to fasten into the aluminum structure